Finally, after touring through Turkey for ten days, we made it to the city that inspired the whole trip: where East meets West, Istanbul. Emily had been begging to visit Istanbul for years, so with several successful international trips now under our belts, we were ready to tackle this busy city of enormous historical and cultural importance.
We caught a quick flight from Kayseri Airport in Cappadocia to Istanbul Airport on Turkish Airlines. Istanbul Airport is quite new and a beautiful, spacious airport. It is easily one of my favorite airports in the world. We were picked up from the busy airport by a private vehicle that we arranged with our hotel and driven for about 45 minutes into the city.
Mest Hotel Istanbul
Finding the right hotel for us during our stay in Istanbul was actually quite difficult. Every hotel that we considered seemed like it was either a 5-star option along the Bosphorus located far from the city center or an independent urban hotel with no view and dicey reviews. Then we came across Mest Hotel. This rather new boutique hotel was perfect for us. Located in the Eminoju neighborhood of the Fatih district, Mest Hotel was located within walking distance of many of Istanbul’s major sights and provided easy access to public transportation. Better yet, it is literally steps away from the Spice Bazaar, which meant the sights and sounds of the bustling crowds of people and the smells of the world’s finest spices were ever present right outside our balcony. And speaking of the balcony, Mest Hotel had the most spectacular hotel room view that looked out above the Spice Bazaar and directly at a beautiful mosque with the Bosphorus Strait just beyond. The unbeatable view was Istanbul all in one gaze.
We stayed in the Deluxe Double room at Mest for the duration of our time in Istanbul. The hotel was modern in decor with a preserved old-world elegance throughout. The hotel staff was incredible at helping with suggestions and recommendations and were able to accommodate any requests that we made including lovely flowers and a small cake to help us celebrate our recent anniversary. Typical for Turkey, the breakfast was pretty incredible and was served on the highest floor of the building, meaning even those with an interior room and no balcony could enjoy the incredible views from the hotel.
It may be surprising to learn that one of our favorite things about Mest Hotel was hearing the Adhan, the Muslim call to prayer. Due to the proximity of the New Mosque and countless others across the city, the call to prayer is easily heard and pervasive throughout the city, setting the tone for any amount of time in Istanbul. By the conclusion of our time in Istanbul, we grew to love the beautiful calls and missed them upon our departure.
Not much of the evening remained, but we were so excited to be in Istanbul and were determined to use the little remaining daylight to see one thing, the Hagia Sophia. We would be touring the city and many of its mosques and other historical places the following day. But feasting our eyes on the ancient gem of architecture was the first priority in Istanbul. We made the 20 minute walk through the busy city from the Mest Hotel to Hagia Sophia, enjoying seeing the city for the first time on foot. Finally, there she was! We spent some time soaking up her majesty before moving on to an inform dinner at a nearby street food joint. Then, as street vendors began closing up shop and the city began to wind down, we too did so and walked back to our hotel.
Guided Walking Tour of Istanbul
We were a bit timid to get out and explore Istanbul on our own because of the vast differences in culture that we had never experienced. Most of all, owing to our ignorance, we did not want to be accidentally disrespectful. So we hired a private guide to walk us around the major sites of Istanbul and explain to us the history and significance of the city. We used Ertunga Ecir Private Tours who, for a very reasonable price, arranged a guide to meet us at our hotel and guide us through Istanbul for the remainder of the day.
From the hotel, we first walked through the Spice Market, where our guide (whose name has completely escaped me) taught us the ins and outs of how to sample and purchase spices and teas. We continued on through the busy city streets to our first mosque, Rüstem Pasha Mosque. Arising from out of nowhere and camouflaged by a bustling market, our guide explained that this mosque is a hidden gem because it was designed by renowned imperial Ottoman architect, Sinan. Because of its location, though, it is often skipped by tour groups and rarely visited by tourists. It was a great place for us to start and learn the proper customs to follow when entering an Islamic place of worship. The mosque was completely empty which allowed our guide to point out things that we would see in all of the mosques, such as the minaret, mihrab and minbar. This mosque is known for its beautiful interior tiles.
Topkapı Palace
The Topkapi Palace was once the center of the Ottoman Empire and served as home to the sultans for hundreds of years. It was also the administrative center for the Empire and housed the imperial treasury, mint, and library. On our way to the palace, we walked through Gülhane Park, once part of the imperial gardens and currently the oldest park in Istanbul, where we sat for a little break to hear more history of the Ottoman Empire. We continued on through the Gate of Salutation into the palace where we first visited the Imperial Council chamber. Our guide pointed out the starkly different styles between the adjoining rooms, one decorated in a European style and the other in a more customary Ottoman style. There is a window covered by a golden grill that allowed the Sultan access to the council meetings without being seen – a reminder to the Imperial Council that the Sultan might always be present.
We next visited the Library of Ahmed III where our guide reminded us how advanced the Ottoman Empire was, scientifically and otherwise, for its time in history. The Imperial Throne was on display in the library because its usual home was under restoration. We walked through the palace grounds to see beautiful views of the Bosphorus and immediately appreciated why the sultans chose this spot for the Imperial Palace. Several different parts of the palace were displaying Ottoman artifacts and treasures, and there was an extensive collection of clocks from around the world that were gifted to the sultans from other nations.
Next we made our way to the Imperial Harem, home to the sultan’s mother, his wives and concubines, and the eunuchs that watched over them. The harem was the most impressive portion of the palace, in my opinion. It was fascinating to hear about the hierarchy that existed in the harem and the several points in history where these women helped determine the future of the Ottoman Empire. The private bath facilities of the sultan and the sultan’s mother were ornate and beautifully crafted out of large slabs of marble, but it was the Harem Imperial Hall that was the most impressive room in the entire palace.
Overall, because of its historical significance and the unique history of the Ottoman Empire, the Topkapi Palace was worth visiting. We were not completely blown away by it, as we’ve certainly been to more beautiful and impressive palaces.
As we exited the Topkapi Palace but before we left the palace grounds, we stopped to visit Hagia Irene. This ancient church is one of the few in Istanbul that has not been converted into a mosque, mainly because it was used as a storage building for weapons until it was converted into a museum and concert hall. Completed in the 4th century, it predates Hagia Sophia. In many ways, stepping foot inside Hagia Irene felt like stepping back to Ancient Rome.
We exited the Topkapi Palace through the Imperial Gate as the lines to enter were beginning to lengthen and walked down Soğukçeşme Sokağı, a small street in the same Sultanahmet neighborhood that houses Topkapi Palace and Hagia Sophia. The street is named after a fountain at its end and boasts quite a few wooden Ottoman mansions from the 19th and 20th centuries. They were desirable places to live because of their proximity to the imperial court at Topkapi. Today many of them are owned by a luxury hotel collection.
Our guide led us to our lunch spot next, Caferaga Madrasa. Formerly an educational institution from the 1500’s, this lovely lunch spot has been restored and converted into a restaurant with surrounding artist workspaces and studios. We purchased a small piece from one of these shops for our gallery wall at home. The food was traditional Turkish and quite delicious, and, because it is located a bit off the main drag, the restaurant was quiet and relaxing.
Hagia Sophia
As we approached the mammoth Hagia Sophia, this time our second, I struggled to comprehend how this structure was built some 1,400 years ago. Widely looked at as a architectural masterpiece, Hagia Sophia simply becomes more and more impressive as you learn more about her. After its inception as a Byzantine Church, it was later converted into a mosque during the Ottoman Empire, then used as a museum after the empire’s fall. Only recently was it reopened as a mosque for daily prayer. There are hints that point to each of these periods in history located within and surrounding Hagia Sophia.
We first walked along the side of the building where there are ruins from one of the original churches that predated Hagia Sophia. Built on the same ground, two different churches were destroyed by fire prior to Hagia Sophia’s construction less than six years. We, along with the rest of the public, entered through the Imperial Gate. Once the entrance for only the emperor and his entourage, this gate displays one of the most famous mosaics from the Byzantine era, Christ on a throne with the emperor kneeling before him. These impressive mosaics are scatted throughout Hagia Sophia, but many are covered by drapes, as animate images are forbidden within mosques. Some of the mosaics were destroyed over the years, but luckily, some remain and are truly magnificent to see.
We visited Hagia Sophia during a time of active prayer, which was very neat to witness. After removing our shoes, we entered the prayer hall of Hagia Sophia and were enamored by the sheer size of the structure. It’s amazing that the building has stood the test of time and continues to function to this day. We took our time looking around and exploring before exiting through the other side of the mosque.
From Hagia Sophia we walked across a grassy pedestrian area to the Blue Mosque. Unfortunately for us, this mosque was being restored and, although it was open to the public, its picture-perfect blue tiles were shielded by scaffolding. Luckily, we saw some of this beautiful tile work earlier at the Rüstem Pasha Mosque. We did get a peak at the gigantic central dome, though, a good representation of the beauty of the Blue Mosque.
Right around the corner is the Hippodrome, the remainder of the large stadium that once stood there and housed up to 100,000 people. The Egyptian Obelisk that stands in the Hippodrome was brought over from Egypt by Constantine and is believed to be only one-third of its original height.
Theodosius Cistern
The more popular Basilica Cistern was closed for restoration during our visit to Istanbul, but thankfully our guide took us to a different Byzantine cistern instead. The ancient underground cisterns of Istanbul served an important purpose during the Byzantine era; they housed water brought into the city via aqueducts. Hundreds of them exist, but only a few are open to the public. Supported by 32 columns that rise to a height of about 30 feet, the Theodosius Cistern is one example open to visitors. Stepping beneath the busy streets of Istanbul into this dark, chilly, and somewhat creepy subterranean chamber was a unique experience that reinstated the antiquity that is omnipresent in Istanbul. One of the absolute highlights of this day was the ten minute light show that took place in the cistern and perfectly combined history and art with technology, light, and music.
Grand Bazaar
Our final stop of the day was Istanbul’s famed Grand Bazaar. The Grand Bazaar dates back to the beginning days of the Ottoman Empire in 1453 and has been growing and functioning ever since. Nothing can prepare you for the sensory overload that accompanies a visit to the Grand Bazaar. It’s best to just go and see for yourself. Our guide was helpful in orienting us to which direction we were walking because, with thousands of shops and stalls, it is impossible not to get lost. We perused several sections of the Grand Bazaar before realizing how tired we were from a long day of walking. With an upcoming dinner reservation, we opted to head back to the hotel and rest up for a few hours.
After a quick rest back at our hotel, we freshened up and were out the door to make it to our dinner reservation at Eleos in Beyoğlu. We picked this restaurant as our only pre-booked dinner reservation because we wanted to enjoy a beautiful view of the Bosphorus at least once from above. It gave us exactly that!
We made the choice to walk to dinner, not knowing that it was going to be uphill much of the way. We had been told that the Beyoğlu neighborhood had a lot of neat shops and was famous for a walking street called İstiklal Avenue which were wanted to explore. After crossing the Galata Bridge toward the Golden Horn for the first time, we made our way up past Galata Tower and along İstiklal Avenue until we reached the restaurant. The neighborhood was bustling with fun energy, so we made plans to come back the next morning and explore it further.
Eleos Restaurant, located near the top floor of an old, multi-use building, is a quaint and clean space that specializes in seafood. Not all of the tables offer the nice view, though, so a reservation was helpful. We enjoyed starters of octopus and prawns before each choosing a different fish from the tray of fresh options. We were also given a complimentary plate of fried zucchini. The meal was fantastic, and dessert was a win as well.
After dinner, we walked back to the hotel and enjoyed the live musicians and upbeat vibe of the Beyoğlu area. Crossing the Galata Bridge at night provided another impressive and unique view of the Bosphorus and Istanbul’s many minarets lit from below amongst the dark of the evening.
Galata Tower
Our second full day in Istanbul began, after a great Turkish hotel breakfast, of course, with us once again crossing the Galata Bridge over the Golden Horn. We walked up to the Galata Tower early in the morning in order to arrive at its opening hour. The lines can be rather long later in the day, and we didn’t want to have to fight others to enjoy the amazing 360-degree panoramic views of Istanbul. Originally built as a lookout tower over the Golden Horn, today the tower is a museum. But most people pay to enter for the stunning views it offers. This was truly one of the most impressive city views I’ve seen, and I’d consider it a must-do in Istanbul.
After descending from the viewing deck (most of the way up is accomplished by elevator, but tourists descend the tower using the stairs that wrap the circular tower) we stopped in a nearby coffee shop for some Turkish coffee and complimentary Turkish delights. Let’s be real, we probably also stopped because we needed to use a toilet. But we enjoyed the quick stop at Vihyana Kahvesi.
Taksim Square
We walked up İstiklal Avenue, known for being one of Istanbul’s busiest shopping streets, toward Taksim Square. İstiklal Avenue is a pedestrian street with a tram that runs most of the length to Taksim Square. The many stores and restaurants along the way include everything from popular chains to local shops and eateries. Emily was excited to find some of her favorite skincare products at a cheaper price.
Taksim Square is a large square that marks the center of modern-day Istanbul. It is here that many important Turkish demonstrations and historical events have occurred. Today, it is an important stop on the metro and is known for many of its street food options, including the Taksim Islak Burger. We stopped to eat lunch just outside Taksim Square at Taksim Döner, a popular fast food joint since in operation since 1934. Originally wanting a fresh kebab, we saw everyone coming and going with unique-looking wet hamburgers and knew we had to try one. Later we learned the history of the Islak Burger. Years ago, they were developed as a way to use yesterday’s meat as a cheap eat so that it was not wasted. Today, there are only a handful of places that are allowed to claim they sell the Islak Burger. And in summary, it was actually pretty tasty!
Next we walked to find a cable car that travels over Maçka Park in the direction of Dolmabahçe Palace. Knowing that many of Istanbul’s finest hotels are in that area, our goal was to explore that part of the city. Let me just say, this was a waste of time. There is not much going on in that area, and it’s relatively difficult to explore on foot. We quickly traveled back in the direction we’d come.
Çukurcuma Hamamı
Most people will recount that one of the neatest things to do in Turkey is to visit a traditional Turkish hammam, and I won’t deviate from this recommendation one bit. We walked to Çukurcuma Hamamı from Taksim Square for our 2:00 PM appointment. It is necessary to book treatments at the hammam in advance because the baths are popular with locals and tourists alike. This particular hammam was recommended as one that is quite authentic in its spa experience.
From the menu, we booked the experience that included the traditional hammam treatment as well as a 40 minute massage. After changing into bathing suits, we were escorted into the hammam and to a sauna-like room where we were handed metal basins which we used to pour cold water over ourselves for ten minutes. Next we went to the main room and had an exfoliating hand and foot scrub before we laid on the Göbektaşı or heated marble slab and were lathered in soapy bubbles and given a short body massage. We spent some time lounging and drinking tea before we we escorted to private rooms for the longer massage.
This was the best spa experience I’ve ever had, and I’m sure Emily agrees. It was more unique than I expected but also insanely relaxing. The hammam itself was beautiful, and although others are there receiving treatments, it felt private and personalized. This should be on everyone’s list of things to do in Turkey.
Whirling Dervishes Ceremony
We spent our evening at another “must-do” according to many travelers to Turkey, but this time I would disagree with that notion. Sufi whirling is an ancient form of meditation performed during a prayer ceremony called sema. The mystic and impressive whirling done by the dervishes is meant to bring them closer to ultimate perfection. There is a nice museum at Hodjapasha that details the spiritual rituals. I found the entire ceremony to be quite interesting, but it does get rather boring rather quickly over the course of the hour-long performance. The whirling dervishes are very unique and some will find the ceremony to be beautiful in its simplicity, but it is certainly not for everyone.
After the show, we walked around the corner to a popular area with many great restaurants. Our tour guide from the day prior pointed us in this direction for great, local food and restaurants where many locals in Istanbul go. We chose Ziya Sark Sofrasi so that we could try their “Turkish pizzas”. They were delicious and quite large! I’d recommend splitting. We chose one with kebab meat and one with a sausage topping.
Spice Bazaar
After resisting temptation for two full days, our third full day in Istanbul began with a trip to the famous Spice Bazaar. Merely steps from our hotel, the Spice Bazaar offers colorful sights and powerful aromas that are sure to result in sensory overload for all who shop its stalls. There is no limit to the amount of spices once can taste or smell, so long as you are able to tolerate the hospitable stall owners that wish to make a sale. Be prepared to be offered nuts, teas, and sweets as you taste or just browse the many spices available at each stall. We had a blast at the Spice Bazaar, and Emily came away with many bags of spices to bring home with her. Be sure to have your spices air-sealed at the stall at the time of purchase before you attempt to bring them on a plane, though.
Private Street Food Tour
Our big plan for the rest of the day was a Private Street Food Tour that we booked online. We’ve learned from several other trips that food tours are a great way to eat your way around a city at a reasonable cost and led by someone who knows how the locals eat. We met our guide, Ugur, near Taksim Square (we used the metro to get there this time – way easier!) and spent several hours tasting food at various locations in Beyoğlu. Ugur was a great guide who knew a lot about Turkish history, politics, and culture, in addition to food! He took us to his favorite spots and those that many Turkish locals frequent. We ate a few thing that we’d already tried, such as the Islak Burger and Turkish pizzas, but tried many more food items ranging from breakfast dishes to pickled vegetables to desserts made from chicken! It was a great way to spend the afternoon.
Ferry to Anatolia
Istanbul is a large city that actually spreads across both continental Europe and Asia. In addition to bridges, the European and Asian, or Anatolian, side can be traversed by ferry. There are several different ports from which ferries leave on a frequent basis to take visitors and Turkish locals back and forth. We boarded at Karaköy Pier and traveled to Kadikoy Ferry Station. It was a fun ride across the Bosphorus and allowed us to see many of Istanbul’s sights from the water. Once we left the ferry on the Anatolian side of Istanbul, we walked to a pub recommended to us by Ugur for a beer. With not much else to do (we hadn’t planned for this quick trip), we returned by ferry and made our way back to the hotel for an afternoon siesta.
Bosphorus Sunset Cruise
When it comes to vacation excursions, I can never have too many chances to get on a boat. And when we found the opportunity to do so at sunset in Istanbul, we booked right away. This sunset cruise took place on a yacht on the Bosphorus, slowly traveling down the Strait lined by luxury palaces and historic Ottoman residences. Unfortunately, the clouds came out and blocked the sun, making this sunset cruise a bit chilly with no sunset to speak of. Still, we enjoyed a bottle of wine and the fresh breeze while snuggled under a blanket to keep us warm. Even without the sunset, it was a memorable experience in a beautiful setting.
Dinner on Galata Bridge
The Galata Bridge is an important bridge in Istanbul that spans the Golden Horn and connects the Fatih and Beyoğlu districts. While the upper level of the two-tiered bridge is for motor vehicles, pedestrians, and fishermen, many restaurants span both sides of the lower level and provide an up-close and personal view of the Bosphorus. Several days prior, our hotel concierge recommended that we eat on the bridge one evening at Galata Orfoz Balik. We were seated at a lovely table right by the water and the pedestrian walkway, which meant we had a great view of the Bosphorus and the strangers walking by. What’s better than some solid people-watching during dinner?! Quite on brand, we chose a large fish from the fresh display to split and each enjoyed some drinks and laughs. At one point, a lively group of performers joined us looking for tips as they played some fun music. We gave them what cash we had, and they kept playing longer, which could only mean they weren’t yet satisfied with the amount we’d produced. Too bad, I guess! We sure enjoyed them, though!
Süleymaniye Mosque
With one more day remaining on our epic Turkey trip, we began the day in a leisurely fashion after sleeping in a bit. After enjoying our final Turkish breakfast buffet, we walked to the Süleymaniye Mosque. Designed by the famous architect Sinan, this mosque was commissioned by Suleiman the Magnificent and was the largest mosque in Istanbul for over four hundred years until several years ago. It sits atop a hill with views of much of the city and the Golden Horn and is a staple of the Istanbul sky line. Because the Süleymaniye Mosque is located in a different neighborhood than most of the other historic mosques and tourist sites in Istanbul, though, it is usually not included in tours of the city and is often skipped by visitors to the city. Our tour guide from several days prior told us to make sure we did not miss it.
This imperial mosque is actually more of a complex and originally included separate buildings to meet more than just the religious needs of the community, such as a hospital, school, inn, and public baths. Some of these buildings still exist but are used for other functions. Still, the grandeur of the mosque complex that was Süleymaniye remains. The grounds are beautiful and the view of the city was magnificent. We enjoyed seeing this masterpiece of Sinan and comparing it to the smaller, simpler work of his, Rüstem Pasha Mosque, that we toured on our first day.
Galataport and Tomtom Shopping
Next, we hopped on the metro and rode a few stops to Istanbul’s Galataport. Galataport is the main cruise ship port in Istanbul and is a great spot to walk along the Bosphorus and feel the fresh air from the historic body of water. It’s best to do so when no ships are in port, though. While we were walking around the port, the crew was preparing for the docking of a large cruise ship that we could see in the distance.
We continued the morning by re-exploring an area that we had walked through a few days prior when making our way to the Turkish hammam. The Tomtom neighborhood in the Beyoğlu district is full of local shops selling art pieces and home goods. These are the types of souvenirs that we like to bring home from our travels. Many of the shops are full of handmade and artistic pieces with interesting, unique style. I’d highly recommend the Tomtom area to find that special piece to bring home with you.
Final evening in Istanbul
We spent some time in the afternoon packing for our departure from Turkey. This required a bit more time than usual as we’d acquired quite a few more items than we normally do – namely, spices and sweets! Before heading out for our last dinner in Istanbul, Emily wanted to take another ferry ride across the Bosphorus. This body of water really does have a special draw and appeal that is difficult to explain. No matter where you are in Istanbul, you can feel its significance in the development and success of the ancient and thriving city. As we exited the ferry, a serendipitous moment occurred as we said goodbye to the Bosphorus for the final time: two dolphins emerged in the water merely a few yard away from the port.
We returned to Hoca Paşa street for our last meal at Şehzade Cağ Kebap. These were some of the best kebabs we ate during our entire trip to Turkey, which was fitting for our final meal. Our flight left quite early the next morning, so we ended the night after dinner and said farewell to the miraculous and historic City of Seven Hills, Istanbul.
