Traveling to arctic Norway in the dead of winter may seem a bit deranged to some, but we were up for the challenge and highly motivated to witness the Northern Lights. After failing to catch a glimpse of the Aurora during our trip to Iceland the year prior (read all about it here), we were prepared to do whatever it took to witness the spectacle. Our journey to spot the Northern Lights began with several days in Tromsø, Norway, the “Paris of the North”, located north of the Arctic Circle at almost 70ºN latitude.
Scandic Ishavshotel Tromsø
After a short layover in Frankfurt, Germany, our two-flight journey to Norway landed us in the icy city of Tromsø in the early afternoon. Of course, being January north of the Arctic Circle meant that the sun had already set, and we deplaned onto a dark and windy concrete runway. After a long wait in the elements due to airport construction (the wind was whipping around the building and gave us a quick introduction to arctic weather!), we claimed our bags and found a taxi to take us to our hotel in downtown Tromsø.
We chose to stay at the Scandic Ishavshotel and had booked a Superior King Room with Fjord View. The decision to stay at the Scandic was easy for us due to the views offered from the hotel on the water and the award-winning breakfast buffet. The hotel was also a short walk from everything in Tromsø, although any other hotel in the city center would be as well. This sizable hotel was clean and friendly, and the breakfast was very impressive. During the arctic winter, with only a few hours of daylight per day, having a motivating factor to get you out of bed is a must, and nothing does this like a great breakfast!
We quickly left the hotel after checking in and freshening up, abiding by our mantra to never nap after landing! Tromsø is a small city and very walkable. But with icy sidewalks and harsh arctic conditions around each corner, even for getting out for a walk, being prepared is a must. The most important item that we packed were our Yaktrax to prevent falling on the ice; they were quite literally a lifesaver!
A quick coffee and bite to eat is almost always our first stop in a new city, and in Tromsø we tried Smørtorget. Just down the street from our hotel, this tiny cafe was cozy and cute, offering fresh breads and paninis along with a full coffee bar, perfect for an afternoon pick-me-up in a warm environment.
Next we walked down Tromsø’s main pedestrian street, Storgata Street. Illuminated by lights and packed with shops, restaurants, and bars, we found a walk down Storgata to be just how we envisioned the city’s most popular thoroughfare. Unfortunately for us, though, most of the shops were closed because it was a Saturday afternoon that was quickly turning to evening. So after a walk around most of the city center, past the old, wooden Tromsø Cathedral and witnessing an outdoor film showing at a snow cinema (the Tromsø International Film Festival was in town during our stay) we dropped into Balthazar Winebar for a few craft beers and some people watching through the large glass windows looking out onto Storgata Street.
Dinner at Full Steam Tromsø
Our first night in Tromsø was our only opportunity to have a nice meal in the city, and we chose Full Steam Tromsø AS. Located in a turn of the century waterfront building that once housed a fish factory, this restaurant served a fantastic and authentic Norwegian meal. With its candlelit tables and antique wooden boats and vast fishing nets adorning the ceiling and walls, Full Steam feels like a step back in time to a simpler Norway. The restaurant is also attached to a museum that teaches the importance of the cod fish to Norwegian culture and cuisine.
We had a great meal at Full Steam. Starting with some cod croquettes and cocktails, we move onto entrees: fresh cod catch of the day for me and whale steak for Emily. After dinner we stopped to take a photo by the calm and chilly Norwegian harbor before turning in for the night.
A Full Day in Tromsø
With only one full day in the city, we planned ahead to make sure we made the most of our time. Unfortunately, our arctic fjord cruise had to be cancelled due to weather, and we were really bummed about it. We almost have backup plans when we travel, though, so we were able to quickly adjust and still have some unique, arctic experiences that we loved.
After a hotel buffet breakfast, we set out as the sun rose (about 10:00 AM) and walked the city center. We saw both a Troll Museum and a Polar Museum but did not visit either. Instead we stopped in a few shops that were open (it was a Sunday morning) and got some coffee before our first add-in experience in Tromsø.
MS Vulkana Spa Boat
Floating in the harbor just around the bend from our hotel was Vulkana, and this spa boat was our first stop for the day. Vulkana is a 1950’s fishing boat that has been completely converted into a one-of-a-kind spa. It can be rented by the hour for one of the most unique spa experiences we’ve encountered.
There may not be a better way to enjoy a spa day than while also breathing in the cool, fresh arctic air, and Vulkana makes this dream a reality. As one would expect from any Norwegian spa, the boat has a wood-fire sauna on board. There is a zen lounge and Turkish-style hammam in the largest part of the vessel where the fish was once stored. The main level has a small kitchen, bathroom, and dining area where appetizers and drinks are served. On deck there is a hot tub that is heated by a live fire that is arranged to offer views of the Tromsø harbor and surrounding fjords. And finally, for the super courageous, a cold plunge into the polar Tromsø harbor is also an option.
We booked two hours at Vulkana but could have stayed all day long. The various spa offerings were so unique, and we loved being able to jump from one to another as we chose. The boat staff were such lovely people, and they do a great job of minimizing the number of guests on board, too. We definitely spent most of our time in the hot tub on deck, but we had a lot of fun exploring everything in the boat.
After our first spa experience for the day, we walked to a small art shop to buy something for our gallery wall at home. It was tough finding a place that was open on a Sunday during the hours we had available, but we accomplished our goal and came home with a nice piece of original artwork. Then it was on to another spa experience!
Pust Floating Sauna
Pust is a small, wooden sauna floating in the heart of Tromsø Harbor, making it a beautiful spot to relax and reflect while looking out onto the frigid water. Here you can combine the experiences of a Norwegian wood-fired sauna with an ice cold plunge into the arctic waters that surround Tromsø! I’m not kidding. The popular thing to do here is relax in the sauna, jump in the ice-cold water, and repeat to your heart’s content.
I have a few details to share about Pust. Overall, it was a neat thing to do, but don’t go here looking for relaxation. Even though we booked time slots ahead and it appeared it would be empty, because there is no one on site to regulate who stays and goes according to the time paid for, there were many more people than should have been present. Also, with visitors entering and leaving the sauna frequently and taking a cold plunge in between, it gets a bit chaotic for those sitting inside. The changing rooms were also small and soaked with water from the harbor, making our plans to freshen up after without returning to the hotel quite difficult.
But jumping in that freezing cold Arctic Ocean water was quite the experience. Calling it refreshing would be a huge understatement! So come to Pust for a dip in the ocean if you’re a fan of cold plunges, but skip it if you’re just looking for a sauna.
By this point, we burned enough calories by freezing in the Arctic Ocean, so we walked to a great spot for a quick bite to eat in Tromsø. Raketten Bar & Pølse is a small hot dog stand that claims to sell the world’s best reindeer hot dogs. For those not interested in tasting reindeer, though, they also have beef and pork hot dogs. There is a small outdoor fire by which to eat and enjoy a warm drink as well. This little place is definitely a must-try during the Tromsø winter. Be prepared to wait in line!
Chasing the Northern Lights
We joined Pukka Travels for our final and most anticipated activity of the day, a Northern Lights Mini Bus Chase. We had been watching the weather all day in preparation, and with a cloudy forecast for the Tromsø region, we were anxious that, once again, we would leave the frozen tundra without witnessing the spectacle. Thankfully, we were wrong!
Pukka Travels did an excellent job with this excursion, although it is not for the faint of heart! When we arrived to their travel booking office, I was quickly impressed by the sophisticated weather tracking systems that were being displayed in the waiting area. Several guides were discussing strategies of how to best find the Lights that evening, as the main advantage to this tour was the opportunity to access remote pockets of Norway where the Northern Lights are most visible. As the different tour group guides discussed their plan, we sipped on hot chocolate and squeezed into the arctic snow suits provided to us by the company for the evening.
Our mini bus of about 12 people left Tromsø being told there was a 50/50 chance to see the Aurora on that night. But we were assured that the guides would do all they could to pick an optimal spot, even if it meant packing up and moving a few times. Within 90 minutes of driving, we started to witness the Northern Lights above us through the windows of the van. Our driver quickly pulled to a spot he knew (they know remote but accessible spots all over Northern Norway and even into Finland where the van can be parked and the group can gather) and just as soon as we exited the van, the Aurora Borealis was among us. Almost in a frenzy and not knowing how long it would last, we all raced to take pictures and marvel at the sight. Little did we know a several-hours-long show was unfolding.
The guides from Pukka brought along professional photography equipment to take professional photos for us and were also very helpful with picking the best settings for smart phones. I found that my GoPro took some great shots as well. But ultimately, after getting some good shots, it was most enjoyable to just lie back in the snow and look up at the dazzling sky.
The entire excursion lasted almost 6 hours, and it was certainly cold! But the guides made a nice fire to keep warm and by which they cooked some soup. We stayed in remote the Northern Norwegian Alps until the Northern Lights show began to fade. Then, we quickly packed up and headed by to Tromsø, where we arrived just after midnight. What a night to remember!
A Slightly Unexpected Norwegian Surprise
We woke up the next morning still in awe of the previous night’s magic. On this Monday morning, we were scheduled to check out of our hotel before leaving on another exciting adventure. Little did we know, our biggest adventure was just getting started!
Between shopping for pregnancy tests in a foreign pharmacy and embarking on a trip to a secluded luxury lodge for the remainder of the week just a few hours after finding out you’re expecting, it’s safe to say plenty of memorable stories evolved from this most exciting development. But we were almost late to meet some new friends!
Tromsø Arctic Reindeer
Our trip to Northern Norway was packed full of experiences that we had been longing to do for months, and the complete Sami experience at with Tromsø Arctic Reindeer was one of them. After pickup in a large tour bus in Tromsø city center, we drove to the nearby Sami camp where the reindeer awaited. The Sami are an indigenous people in Northern Norway whose culture relies heavily on the reindeer in all walks of life. During our midday tour, we were able to meet and feed the reindeer herd before entering into the Sami hut to enjoy a warm reindeer soup meal and stories from the Sami people.
Quite unfortunately, the arctic weather truly reared its ugly head on this morning. Our dreams of peacefully feeding the reindeer in mounds of fresh white snow turned into angry reindeer trying to quickly eat while being pummeled and pelted by falling ice and wicked winds. It felt like the most dichotomous Instagram vs. reality moment of any trip I’ve been on. We did our best to enjoy the moment, but it was truly pure chaos. So after some time feeding the beasts (they do depend on us to be fed, after all) we slipped into the warm Sami hut and remained there for the duration of the excursion.
After the Sami experience, we returned to Tromsø and grabbed some pizza at Yonas Pizzeria which was steps away from where our tour dropped us off. The pizza was great with many toppings to choose from.
And with that, we were ready to depart Tromsø to begin our time in the Lyngen Alps at Lynden Lodge. Our entire trip to this part of the world centered around the four day luxury adventure experience that we reserved after reading a Travel & Leisure page about the best places to view the Northern Lights. With that already under our belt and the knowledge of a new addition to the family, we hoped our time at Lyngen Lodge would provide us with unique experiences and relaxation, too. Spoiler alert: it did!