After several days in Tromsø, Norway, the time had come for us to travel 2.5 hours to the shore of the Lyngen Fjord for a four night stay at Lyngen Lodge. This luxury lodge provides the ultimate arctic adventure during the day while offering a cozy, communal experience at night. Lyngen Lodge is owned and operated by a family and tight-knit team that provide impressive knowledge and service with everything they do, from cold weather excursions to world-class dining, all while keeping their guests safe, satisfied, and WARM!
Lyngen Lodge
The Lyngen Lodge is located rather remotely in the Lyngen Alps, so getting there definitely takes some planning. Luckily, as was the case for us, the lodge staff will arrange private transport from Tromsø. The commute is a lovely one that guides you around or across two fjords by car or ferry. After meeting half of our lodge mates on the drive and getting to know one another, we arrived at the lodge in the evening in time to find our room, unpack, and sit down for dinner.
Lyngen Lodge is simply and beautifully decorated with a rustic decor and comfortable furnishings. There are 8 rooms at the lodge, all of which were booked during our stay. Each room is cozy and houses a maximum of two guests. Some have a nice fjord view and others have a mountain view, and they all have private bathrooms. The “Stua” or living room is large with plenty of seating for the group to gather around the fire and chat after the day’s adventures. Everywhere we looked in the lodge we’d find simple, white burning candles and large windows that gazed onto the freshly fallen snow. The dichotomous touches of fire and ice felt quintessentially Norwegian.
Relaxation is a must after the adventures of the arctic, and there are several ways to do so at Lyngen Lodge. Imperative to Norwegian living, there are two different saunas at the lodge, one attached to the lodge itself and one more scenically located down by the fjord. There is an outdoor jacuzzi that is perfect for keeping warm while enjoying the fresh arctic air and, if you’re lucky, the Northern Lights! And inside the lodge there is a cozy loft area that is perfect for snuggling up with a good book.
One of the most impressive aspects and certainly one of our predominate memories of Lyngen Lodge is the meal service. The chefs during our stay, a married couple comprised of one traditional and one pastry chef, prepared absolutely delicious meals each evening that were unique but maintained a Norwegian flare. Each evening, the long table was distinctively set for the entire group to sit down together. Particularly spectacular were the fresh, homemade breads and butters that were served each evening with dinner. I’ll never forget how delicious they were. I was also wowed by the afternoon cakes that were waiting upon our arrival back to the lodge from our excursions. A wine pairing was optional with each dinner for an additional cost, or we could choose from a list of local beers or spirits at any point during our stay
The evening meal on our first night was one of our favorites of the entire stay. We started with a salmon tartare small plate which was followed by a lamb tenderloin entree. Red meats are popular in Norway, with lamb and reindeer being the most common. We were treated to both during our stay at Lyngen Lodge.
Adventure Day 1: Snowmobiling, Snowshoeing, and Ice Fishing
Our first morning at Lyngen Lodge began with a nice buffet spread of cold meats and cheeses, breads, jams, hot eggs and porridge, and local teas and coffee. We then layered up with clothing and made our way outside for our first glimpse of the fjord during the limited daylight. The Lyngen alps had been uncharacteristically warm prior to our arrival, and our hosts were concerned that the lack of snow would limit our arctic adventures that all require some established snowfall. Luckily for us, almost a foot of fresh snow had dropped overnight. There’s nothing quite like the crisp, white snow shimmering along the icy fjord in the morning.
Lyngen Lodge provides full snow suits, snow boots, and all equipment to those staying at the lodge in a separate building located steps from the main lodge. I cannot emphasize enough how wonderful and helpful this was. No matter how much you prepare, traveling across the world with enough layers and insulated snow clothing to keep yourself warm in the arctic is a total pain. Having it available on site saves room in the suitcase and ensures you’ll have exactly what you need for the day.
After getting suited up, we left the lodge in a passenger van to begin the day’s activities. We drove about 20 minutes away to the area surrounding Sikkájávri, a lake just north of the lodge in the Lyngen alps. From there we met our local guides for the day, jumped on snowmobiles, either behind the driver or in the attached sled, and were driven up the mountain to the frozen lake. The ride was exhilarating, especially since I’ve never been on a snowmobile before! Once atop, we reached a large plateau with a wooden hut which served as our home base for the afternoon.
We learned how to put on snowshoes and how to walk in them before departing on a snow hike. Emily and I didn’t last too long, as the snow was so deep that she just kept getting stuck and was not enjoying the experience. So instead we turned back and kept warm in the hut. Our hosts had prepared some gløgg, the Scandinavian version of mulled wine, which we enjoyed while exchanging stories with the local Norwegian men that drove us in snowmobiles.
Once the remainder of the group returned, we got a chance to try ice fishing. Merely an opportunity to take a memorable photo, ice fishing was a total bore, which may have been worsened when we found out they haven’t caught a fish at this time of the year in the icy lake in years. As we gave up on the ice fishing, our guide pointed to the sky to show us some uncommon polar stratospheric clouds. Then, we spent some time being pulled in a sled by the snowmobiles and driving them around the flat terrain before it was time for some lunch. Our funny Norwegian friends had prepared a fish soup that was so delicious and unlike any soup we’d ever had. We also grilled hot dogs on the fire outside. Finally, it was time to return to the lodge, as we were losing the daylight. When one of the snowmobiles got stuck in the thick snow on the way back down the mountain, we all needed to help get it loose. The snow was so deep, it came almost up to my hip!
Back at the lodge, there was charcuterie waiting for us. Many of the guests took turns in the sauna, while I enjoyed the jacuzzi followed by a Norwegian beer. Unfortunately for Emily, our happy news meant no sauna, jacuzzi, or wine. All reasons to return one day in the future!
Dinner for night two was once again fantastic. Our first course was a pumpkin soup. The main course was Norwegian cod, and for dessert we were served pavlova, which I’d never tasted before.
Adventure Day 2: Dog Sledding in Norway
The second day excursion was one of several bucket list adventures that brought us to Norway. As soon as the sun started to rise (about 9:30 AM at this time of year in the arctic), we drove inland for about 45 minutes to Riverland Husky where we met owner and experienced musher, Tom. With a strong passion for dog sledding, Tom breeds and trains his own dogs at Riverland Husky and competes in dog sledding races around the world. He offers a dog sledding experience to guests as a way to help make a living. After a safety tutorial and some tips on how to mush, we were quickly off for the first leg of the journey.
This was easily one of the best experiences of my life. What surprised me most was how peaceful the ride was. Whether mushing or riding, there is a sense of calm that prevails once the dogs start running. The once loud and boisterous huskies transform into silent workhorses when unbridled and given the opportunity to do what they’re bred to do: run. And they love it! Suddenly, we found ourselves riding gently through the most beautiful, snow-covered alpine forest, pinching ourselves asking “Is this real life?”.
After riding for about 25 minutes, we stopped at predetermined spot where Tom secured all four groups of dogs. We spent some time playing with the pups as they rolled in the snow. Tom explained more about how different each of their personalities are and how he selects them for their respective positions on the team. He knows each of his 30 huskies by name and can even tell you their lineages.
We left the dogs and gave them some time to rest while we went and kept warm by the fire with a cup of gløgg. Surrounded by the glistening trees and nearby mountains, the group recounted how spectacular the experience had been thus far while Tom prepared a lunch for us. This time, it was reindeer soup which we slurped down inside the shelter that Tom had build with his own hands. The pride in what he does for a living, meticulously training and conditioning his dogs, was palpable through every question we asked.
We made and enjoyed some s’mores before gearing back up for the journey back to our starting point. As we approached the eager dogs, I was shocked to see each of them sitting patiently, awaiting our return.
This time around, it was Emily who got to mush while I sat in the sled. Once again, we savored every moment of the tranquil ride as the dogs did what they were born to do. We even took the opportunity to video chat with some family that we knew would love to join in the experience. During the return journey, we caught more of the dogs turning their head to the side to grab a mouthful of fresh snow. But never did they break a stride or slow down! They were spectacular.
At the end of our glorious ride, Tom unharnessed the huskies and gave us more time to interact with the dogs while they ran free in their gated yard. Spread out throughout the property, each dog has his or her own dog house, to which some quickly retreated for a rest. Others stayed out to play.
Riverland Husky gave us a truly remarkable and unforgettable experience. The dog sledding excursion was both everything I wanted it to be and nothing like I expected it to be.
As we left Riverland Husky, the clouds were clearing a bit, allowing for a quick glimpse of the Lyngen Alps. During most of our time in Norway, not surprisingly, thick clouds filled the sky, making the beautiful mountains just across the fjord hard to spot. Lyngen Lodge owner, Graham, who had accompanied us for the day, knew a few great spots to take us for beautiful views of the icy fjord and mountainous backdrop. On the way, we stopped at Kronebutikken, a local shop where the owner makes and sells clothes, jewelry, and other crafts inspired by her Sami-Norwegian heritage. She showed us her workshop and the steps to making the leather she uses for clothing and shoes.
We then made a quick stop by one other viewpoint, Spåkenes coastal fort. This ruined fort and others like it were erected by the Germans during WWII and scattered around the Norwegian fjords. They served to protect German-occupied Norwegian lands from invasion from the north via the fjords. After trekking up to the fort and viewpoint, we watched the sun disappear as a snow storm rolled in across the fjord, transforming our view of the Lyngen Alps from clearly visible to undetectable in a matter of minutes.
Back at Lyngen Lodge, as the sun withdrew, we once again shifted gears into relaxation mode. The most amazing orange slide pound cake was waiting for us on arrival. I tried both saunas (a strong preference for the “outdoor” one with views of the fjord) and took a long soak in the jacuzzi.
We dined on a fennel salad, reindeer meat entree, and homemade cinnamon ice cream. Finally, a dessert that Emily enjoyed!
That evening after dinner was a very special one for all of us staying at the lodge together. Since we had all booked the ‘Northern Lights Experience’, despite all of the wonderful things Lyngen Lodge had done for us, we all truly wanted one thing the most: to see the Northern Lights. Luckily, Emily and I had already done some in Tromsø (see post here), but the rest of the crew was still longing to see the spectacle.
The staff at Lyngen are professionals at spotting the Lights, and from the time the sun sets, they are on the lookout. It was a cloudy evening, and the chances of seeing the Aurora was low according to all indicators. Still, the staff and guests of the lodge took turns walking outside and having a look. After several guests had turned in for the night and seemingly out of nowhere, one of the guests reentered the lodge and shouted “Lights!!!!”. A frenzy unfolded as everyone scrambled to find their shoes, grab their cameras, wake their companions, and head outside and look up. Many of us were several drinks in, only adding to the hilarity of the madness. It was still cloudy, but there were windows in the clouds where the Aurora Borealis shone through. There was laughing and crying as each person took in the dancing display of lights. What a great memory to witness so many others see the Northern Lights for the first time and what a treat to enjoy a second show of our own.
Adventure Day 3: Cross-country Skiing
Our adventure for the third day at the lodge was a little bit of a disappointment. We were really hoping to enjoy a Winter Sea Safari and spot some arctic wildlife on the fjords, but the weather was too windy for a safe boating trip. Thus, we were given the option to go cross-country skiing or snowshoeing through the alpine forrest and up to our lunch spot on the hillside high above the Lyngen Lodge. I chose to try cross-country skiing while Emily chose to enjoy the day with a little extra rest in the warm, comfortable lodge. The lodge staff brought those who wished to stay inside up to join the rest of us for lunch.
After more time in the jacuzzi, we were ready to enjoy one final meal with the new friends we had met. Meeting people from around the world, sharing experiences, and making memories alongside one another was a welcome surprise during this luxury getaway. We made new friends from Australia, Germany, and England, some of whom we’ve maintained contact with through social media.
The final meal started with a gnocchi appetizer. The main course was halibut, and the dessert was a lemon pie with homemade sorbet.
The next morning was bittersweet. Our time at Lyngen Lodge was both adventurous and relaxing, exactly what we’d come in search of. A four night stay was perfect, giving us enough time to try new things during the days and retreat to the warmth and coziness of the lodge at night. We said goodbye to our new friends from around the world before the staff transported us back to the Tromsø airport. Next up was a whirlwind 24 hours in Oslo, the capital of Norway.
