First thing Monday morning we were picked up for our four day minibus tour of the South coast of Iceland. To read all about our time in Reykjavik prior to and after these four days, click here.
Troll Expeditions Tour
Like many tourist destinations around the world, Iceland has many tour companies to choose from, so let me explain how and why we chose Troll Expeditions. Usually I am a meticulous trip planner and enjoy discovering all of the details that come together to make an enjoyable getaway. However, our planned destination for this vacation changed just weeks before our departure, so we quickly decided that letting a tour company plan half of the trip was to our advantage. Through various online searches, we found Troll Expeditions, the only tour company that offered overnight tours of various lengths, allowing us to include as much or as little as we liked. Ultimately, we chose the four day trip because it checked almost all of the boxes of places to see and things to do along the South coast of Iceland during wintertime.
I found Troll to be an excellent company to work with. Any questions that I had were promptly answered prior to our arrival in Iceland. The minibus, our on-the-road home for four days, was a comfortable Mercedes-Benz vehicle that had enough seats for about 20, though our tour only included a maximum of 14 individuals. Individual USB charging ports and WiFi on the bus made the hours of travel on the road much more tolerable. Each of our accomodations (pictures included in the daily breakdown below) was simple yet comfortable, exactly what we had expected. Our only true complaint was that the itinerary from day to day did not match what was advertised at the time of booking, which made dressing for the day less predictable. We came to understand that this was because the drivers make changes according to weather and sun conditions in order to give the guests the best experiences.
I cannot brag enough about our guide for the several days, Rocky. He was a middle-aged, rough-around-the-edges, sarcastic and genuinely Icelandic man who made the tour enjoyable at almost all times for us. Quite importantly in the winter in Iceland, he drove safely and responsibly, reminding us to buckle-up with his saying with “Seatbelts and Smiles!” each time he started up the engine. He was knowledgable but not overly so, and he made sure we got all of our questions answered. My favorite thing about Rocky was the amazing playlists that he had created for our long drives from place to place. His attention to detail did not go unnoticed, as he had an uncanny ability to make the tune match the experience. For instance, “Diamonds are Forever” began to play as we drove up to Diamond Beach and “Icelandic Cowboy” started as we drove away from the Icelandic Horse Ranch. His ways were so subtle that I’m sure half of the people on the bus missed the connection, but for us, they were details that we will forever attach to the memories.
Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss
After picking up each of the tour group members in Reykjavik, we drove for a couple of hours to our first stop, Seljalandsfoss. This beautiful waterfall along the South Coast is popular mostly because of the ability to walk behind the waterfall into a small cave. Be prepared, though, as you WILL get wet! In fact, we got completely drenched from head to toe, which made the remainder of the day a bit uncomfortable. Luckily, we had been warned to wear layers upon layers of clothing in Iceland during the winder.
Next, we continued on to Skógafoss, one of the largest waterfalls in Iceland. The walk up to the waterfall given 360º scenic views of the Icelandic countryside that are beautiful at at time of the year and in any weather conditions. And luckily, except for the light mist created by Skógafoss, we managed to stay pretty dry during this stop!
Because of my love for Game of Thrones, I must include that this is the waterfall North of the Wall that Jon Snow and Daenerys fly to on their dragons to and share a kiss in front of during season 8.
Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach
Another short van drive away was our next stop, Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach. This beautiful beach on the Southern coast of Iceland is known for its black sand and basalt rock formations. The tall, hexagonal basalt columns along the coast are some of the most impressive rocks you’ll ever see, and the Reynisdrangar, the sea stacks just off the coast, are popularized by folklore that explain their existance. According to legend, these sea stacks are trolls who did not make it back to land before sunrise and were thus frozen in the ocean.
And for my fellow Game of Thrones fans, this beach will look familiar as Eastwatch by the Sea, used for several shots in season 7 of the show,.
Glacier Hike on Sólheimajökull
The day’s biggest and most exciting stop was up next. We arrived at Sólheimajökull glacier at about 1:30 P.M. and were each given a pair of crampons and an ice pick. After hiking over some rocky terrain to the base of the glacier, our glacier guide for the afternoon, Wey, showed us how to put on the crampons and use the ice pick to walk with more stability. I’m not sure that we had even entirely considered or pondered what the glacier hike might entail, but this was a bit more strenuous and exhilarating than we had expected. Both of us imagined walking out on a flat, frozen glacier with some spikey shoes for a nice picture. Well, eventually this was the case, but the hour long hike to the smooth glacier surface took us uphill and through tight ice formations, all while one of Emily’s crampons kept trying to fall off! The hike was incredibly fun and will always be one of the most memorable things that we’ve done together.
From the top of the glacier we enjoyed beautiful views of the Icelandic tundra. We grew more and more concerned about our ability to arrive back at the bus before darkness, but as always, the tour was perfectly coordinated to maximize our time in the daylight. We hiked back the way we had come up and arrived just in time.
Guesthouse Gerði
Feeling exhausted and ready for a bit of rest, we buckled in and enjoyed one of Rocky’s great playlists, perfect for dozing off in the warm van. After several hours we arrived at Guesthouse Gerði, our accomodation for the night. There was a restaurant on site in the reception area where we enjoyed a nice dinner with the entire tour group. The food was simple but did the trick, and an ice-cold beer and dessert were the icing on the cake after a long day. Breakfast the next morning was also nice and included in the price of our stay.
Blue Ice Cave at Vatnajökull Glacier
Our second day with Troll Expeditions began with an adventure into a blue ice cave. We left our small van behind and loaded up onto a larger “super jeep” van with off-road capabilities. The vehicle was so neat, capable of both driving on the highway and then driving over volcanic rock by inflating each of its gigantic, hydraulic tires from the press of a button in the driver’s seat. The ride was bumpy but so much fun. After parking the vehicle, our cave guide, Carper, hiked us about 30 minutes to the blue ice cave. The hike was over stunning landscape that included black lava rock against the backdrop of a slowly rising winter sun.
The ice cave, like many places we would visit on day two, was simply beautiful. The longer we remained in the cave and as our eyes adjusted to the lack of daylight, the bluer it appeared. The caves are formed when melted water runs under the glacier during the summer months, and for this reason, the blue ice caves are different every year. Carper explained that Vatnajökull is the biggest ice cap in Europe and the same glacier that fills the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, our next stop for the day.
Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon
Not far from the parking lot where we loaded into our mega vans was the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. The icebergs floating in the still water that forms the lake are broken chunks from the Breiðamerkurjökull Glacier, a part of the massive Vatnajökull. Here they float until they ultimately make their way through an outlet into the Atlantic Ocean. As beautiful as it may be, it is important to remember that the glacier lagoon is entirely a consequence of climate change and the ever-increasing rates of glacial melting.
The Glacier Lagoon is stunning, and we were lucky to have a dry weather day with the sun poking through the winter clouds. There’s a sense of calm that comes along with watching these ancient blocks of ice sit in the frigid blue water of the lagoon. And the beauty of the Glacier Lagoon is popular beyond the shores of Iceland as well. This spot has appeared in several James Bond films, A View to a Kill and Die Another Day as well as in Batman Begins.
Diamond Beach
Get ready for this one. Our next stop, just down the road from Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, was the incomparable Diamond Beach. Known in Icelandic as Breiðamerkursandur, here the large pieces of ice that enter the Atlantic Ocean by way of the glacier lagoon are pushed back onto the black sand beach by the inward tide.
Easily one of the most amazing places we’ve ever been, Diamond Beach is a true gem in Southeastern Iceland (pun intended). Words just cannot fully describe the striking beauty of Iceland’s winter sun glimmering off the numerous ice diamonds while they lie perfecly juxtaposed along the black sand beach. You simply cannot visit Iceland and skip the Diamond Beach because you will not see anything like it elsewhere.
Diamond Beach was our last main stop before getting back in the van and heading west toward where we’d started. We stopped for a late lunch at a roadside convenience store that had a hot food buffet but also plenty of pre-packaged options. Then we continued on to a few quick stops that Rocky added in to the tour to make it even more enjoyable. First was the Skeiðará Bridge Monument, the remaining metal pieces left behind from a bridge that was destroyed by a volcanoe and flooding. He also pointed out Svínafellsjökull, the “Hollywood Glacier” that has been used in many movies and also for many seens in the early seasons of Game of Thrones. After driving for a few hours, Rockain again pulled off the road to show us another interesting Icelandic stop. He led us by night to the Rútshellir Cave, the largest man-made cave in Iceland. The cave is hundreds of years old and is accompanied by folklorish stories of a man named Rútur who lived in the cave along with his slaves who plotted to kill him. We walked through the dark, muddy cave as a group while Rocky recounted the legends with his flashlight illuminating his face, just like childhood ghost stories around a campfire. These extra little stops were a great way to break up the hours of driving.
Hótel Örk
Our accomodation for the night was Hótel Örk, which was equally as acceptable as the first night. There was once again a restaurant at the hotel where we conveniently had dinner. A nice addition was the outdoor hot tub where we went for a quick evening dip before retiring for the night. We remained hopeful that the Northern Lights would make an appearance at some point over night, but once again there was no wake up call from Rocky.
The Golden Circle
We set out on the third day of our tour to tackle, arguably, Iceland’s most popular group of natural wonders, the Golden Circle. The weather was the coldest and wettest of the tour days, but Emily enjoyed getting to see some snow on the ground. The Golden Circle includes Gullfoss Falls, the Geysir Geothermal Area, and Þingvellir National Park. But first, Rocky, in his typical way, added a quick stop at one of his favorite scenic stops, Brúarhlöð gorge, which has mighty rock formations along the coarsing waters of the Hvítá River.
Gullfoss
Continuing on the the Golden Circle, our first stop was Gullfoss. This waterfall is one of the most popular in Iceland because of its size and unique two-tier appearance. There are several viewing platforms at Gullfoss, and during warmer months visitors can walk much closer to the mighty waterfall and get drenched by its spray. We stayed back and admired from afar, amazed by the scale of Gullfoss surrounded by the snowy landscape.
After leaving Gullfoss, we made a quick detour from the Golden Circle to stop at Brú Farm. Rocky surprised us by pulling up and inviting us to get out and meet two Icelandic horses that were ready and waiting for our pets. These old guys came right up to the fence when we arrived and knew exactly what we were there for! If only we had some change for the horse candy!
Geysir Geothermal Area
The Geysir Geothermal Area is home to two different geysers. Geysir is one of the most popular geysers in the world, having lent its name to the English word “geyser”. This geyser is no longer active but can still be identified by the bowl it has left in the Earth. Its more exciting little brother, Strokkur, is a geyser that is still active and can been seen erupting every 8 minutes or so.
We stopped for lunch at the Geysir Visitor’s Center which was very nice. There were plenty of hot food options to choose from on such a cold day.
Þingvellir National Park
Our last stop of the Golden Circle was Þingvellir National Park. Historically, this was the place that was accessible from all parts of Icelands, so representatives from each of the original Norse clans would gather here to make laws and settle disputes. Because of this history, Þingvellir has become a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Equally as impressive as this history is the geological significance of Þingvellir. As Iceland is divided by the Mid-Atlantic Rift, the national park is the perfect place to see the edges of both the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. While hiking most of the park was not possible due to thick snow and ice, Rocky did a nice job taking us to overlooks where we could visualize the edges of these plates.
Þingvellir is also another significant Game of Thrones filming location. Fans will quickly recognize the terrain as that used in the Eyrie, and the large rock formations are often cited as the basis for the much larger and impassable Wall in the North.
With the Golden CIrcle completed, our tour returned back to Reykjavik to drop off the other group members. Emily and I were the only ones who booked the four-day tour which should have included a day along the West coast of Iceland. However, wind conditions were going to prevent this the following day, so Rocky arranged for us to instead go on our last excursion of the third day on the fourth day. We were dropped off at Hótel Ísland in Reykjavik. I neglected to take photos, but the accomodations were fair and our dinner around the corner from the hotel was mediocre.
While we sat at dinner, though, we realized we were just around the corner and within walking distance to one of Reykjavik’s biggest and best public swimming pools, Laugardalslaug. We knew we had to go give it a visit, and we’re so glad that we did! No pictures were allowed in the public pools, but this experience showed us exactly what true Icelandic pool culture is. At Laugardalslaug there were many in-ground hot tubs of various temperatures, a standard lap pool, and a pool with a large water slide. We so enjoyed spending the work-week evening as so many Icelanders do at the public pool.
Snorkeling at Silfra
Our final day with Troll Expeditions took us back to Þingvellir National Park for a snorkeling experience at Silfra. Silfra is a land fissure that has opened due to the movements of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. The fissure has filled with glacier water from the Langjökull glacier, some 60 km to the north. Estimates say that it can take more than 100 years for the water to reach the fissure, as it is filtered extremely slowly by the ground through which it travels. Thus, the glacier water that fills the Silfra fissure is some of the clearest water in the world, with visibility exceeding 100 meters, making this one of the top 5 destinations in the world for snorkeling and diving.
I know what you must be thinking: why on Earch would someone snorkel in glacier water during the winter in Iceland? Well, the experience was absolutely one of the neatest things I’ve ever done. Our snorkel guides, Anna and Ronin, helped us get into dry suits while we waited for wind and rain to settle down on a particularly blustery morning. We then walked to the entrance of the fissure and, after proving we were able to perform the safety maneuver and with GoPro in hand, we were off to snorkel the 45 minute course. Emily hated the feeling of the dry suit and thus booked her way through the snorkel in record speed. I, however, took my time and thoroughly enjoyed the crystal-clear water.
The weather conditions for us at Silfra were some of the worst they’d seen in some time, and the wind was unfortuntely blowing opposite its typical pattern. This meant that water from the lake was being blown into the fissure and creating what the guides called “dirty water”. I’ll say, though, if this is dirty water, I cannot fathom what the glacier water must look like under normal conditions. See for yourself in the video below.
Our snorkel in the Silfra fissure marked the end of our tour of Southern Iceland. It was an unforgettable experience filled with plenty of adventure and picturesque wintery landscapes. These were some of the most beautiful places I’ve ever had the privilege of visiting, and many of these memories will last a lifetime. After the tour we were returned to Reykjavik for a few more days of city life, including the Blue Lagoon and a gourmet tasting menu at Grillmarkaðurrin. Read all about it here.